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Superb
French Villa 30 Minutes from Geneva DESCRIPTION
OF LOCATION:
Between the
main ski areas of the Haute-Savoie and Lake Geneva there
is a wonderful valley, which combines many of the advantages
of the other two areas, whilst avoiding their disadvantages
of overcrowding and over-exploitation but which offers nevertheless
all the usual summer and winter mountain activities. |

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LA VALLEE
VERTE
The Vallée
Verte runs roughly parallel to the Southern shore of Lake Geneva,
approximately 15Km to the South. It is reached by taking the A
40 autoroute towards Chamonix, leaving it at the first exit after
Annemasse and taking the good, gently climbing, road up to the
market town of Boëge, reached in about 20mins. Before arriving
at Boëge you see before you the panorama of this wonderful
valley, the floor of which rises from about 700 metres altitude
at Saint-André-de-Boëge, to almost 1,000 metres at
Habère-Poche, some 10Km further up, and then climbs up
to around 1,200 metres at the Col du Cou, from which you can drop
down to Thonon-les-Bains and Lake Geneva. Down the centre of the
valley runs the small River Menoge, flowing into the Arve and
thence into Lake Geneva.
This is an unspoilt
and, as yet, underdeveloped, valley, green and gentle in the summer,
which, in the winter, becomes a white wonderland with geared to
winter sports. To the South, it is bounded by the Hirmentaz (pronounced
‘earmon’) and the Miribel mountains, rising to 1,600 metres, both
of which are easily accessible to moderate walkers, offering stupendous
views of the higher Alps, and Mont Blanc to the South and Lake
Geneva and the Jura to the North. On the northern side of the
valley the wooded slopes are slightly lower and lead on to the
‘Balcon du Léman’ from which there are vistas of the lake
and of Geneva itself.
The main hub of the
valley is Boëge, a lively town whose Tuesday market offers
excellent local produce, including fish from Lake Geneva. Here
are also a number of small shops and a filling station, as well
as doctors, a dentist, banks and other essential services.
Further up are the
villages of Villard and Burdgnin, both of which have preserved
their essential characters and have pretty churches. Villard boasts
the smallest cinema in France which is on the circuit for new
releases. Further on still is the historic village of Habère-Lullin.
Here are to be found the ruins of the 12th century château
which was the scene of the massacre by German troops on Christmas
Eve 1943 of over twenty young people. There is now an impressive
memorial on the site of the old château, where, 60 years
on, wreaths are still laid and memorial gatherings take place.
Next to the memorial, the Mairie is an attractive building occupying
part of the grounds of the old château. It is the scene
of the village fête in July and various other events and
receptions.
Two or three kilometres
further up the valley is Habère-Poche, which has some holiday
apartments and one or two restaurants and is a winter sports centre
attracting skiers not only from the neighbouring parts of the
Haute-Savoie and Switzerland, but also from further afield. Chair
and drag lifts are to be found on the slopes of the Hirmentaz.
From Habère-Poche, the road rises in two directions, left
to the Col du Cou and Thonon and right to the Col de Terramont
and the skiing areas and thence down to the village of Lullin,
from which Thonon and Lake Geneva can also be reached. From Lullin
there is also access to the Valley of Abondance and the ski stations
of Morzine, Avoriaz and Les Gets, each of which gives access to
the ski region of Les Portes du Soleil, one of the most extensive
in Europe.
The valley has two
‘side-shoots’. One is the Valley of Saxel, leading from Boëge
to the pretty village of Saxel, and on, over the Col de Saxel
the lower area bordering the lake. The other is off to the South
from Villard, to the village of Bogève and thence down
to Viuz en Salluz, with its Monday market, and to the main road
up towards Tanninges and Samöens.
The Vallée
Verte is an agricultural community, based largely on dairy farming,
apple orchards and forestry. Super-imposed on the local community
is a growing number of commuters to Geneva and its surrounding
area. There are a number of secondary residences, many of which
belong to Swiss people or retirees. Good food and accommodation
are available for visitors, but the bright lights and attractions
of the major ski resorts are absent and seem likely to remain
so. Much of the residential building consists of chalets and there
are no large residential estates or apartment blocks. The area
is reminiscent of neighbouring Switzerland and indeed, it seems
to have as much in common with Switzerland as with the rest of
France. This is hardly surprising if one looks at its history.
The present departments of Savoie and Haute-Savoie were part of
the Duchy of Savoie until being joined to France in 1869. The
adjoining parts of Switzerland were also Savoyard for most of
that time, not becoming part of the Swiss Confederation until
after the French Revolution around the end of the 18th century.
The Vallée
Verte is an easy 7h drive from the Channel ports, is well served
via Geneva by rail from Paris and is about 40mins drive from Geneva
airport, with its low cost flights to the UK and elsewhere. It
is 1/2h drive from the centre of Geneva, and about 45mins from
the major ski resorts of the Haute-Savoie.
In the summer there
is superb walking up and along the sides of the valley through
alpine meadows ablaze with wild flowers and leading up to the
mountain viewpoints. The walk along the ridge of the Hirmentaz
is particularly spectacular and the climb to the top of Miribel
takes one past a ‘Calvaire’ of iron crosses placed there in the
19th century, leading to the scramble to the summit with its ‘Madonna’
statue. Above Bogève is Plaine Joux, an expanse of alpine
meadow with lovely walks and views and a winter cross-country
skiing paradise. In the valley of la Chèvrerie, a few minutes
drive from the Vallée Verte, there is a lovely small lake
with a picturesque chapel, all that remains of an old monastery.
The lake was formed about 60 years ago by floods following a landslip,
but it looks as though it has been there for ever and the chapel
sits above it as if by design. From here mountain walkers can
reach the summits of the Roc d’Enfer and the Point de Chalune.
For the even more energetic there are in the valley mountain bike
trails, including the exacting descent of the valley of the Menoge,
from Habère-Poche to the bottom of the valley. There are
summer festivals of various kinds, including the celebrated ‘Rock
‘n Poche’, a weekend rock festival held in Habère-Poche
at the end of July, an Alpine music festival at Plaine Joux in
August and fairs of old trades held at Habère-Poche in
late July and, later in the summer, in Boëge. Habère-Poche
has a gliding club, which allows its members to take advantage
of the thermals generated above the valley and its mountains.
The snow usually arrives
around Christmas and lasts until March or April. Despite the,
sometimes heavy, snowfalls and low temperatures, it is rare for
the valley not to be easily accessible by road and the village
roads are kept clear. The whole area becomes a fairyland, especially
when the villages and houses are showing off their Christmas illuminations.
Then, skiing, tobogganing and snow-shoeing take over from the
summer activities. There is good downhill skiing at Habère-Poche
and on the slopes of the Hirmentaz. There are chair and drag lifts
as well as snow cannon. There is also good downhill skiing at
Les Brasses, above Bogève and at La Chèvrerie. These
ski areas are little known internationally, but they have all
that is required for the moderate skier and attract people from
the surrounding area who wish to avoid the overcrowding of the
major resorts. There is also excellent cross-country skiing at
Plaine Joux and at Bellevaux.
The valley is well
served with hotels and a range of restaurants, from the rustic
to the sophisticated. Hirmentaz has several hotels which exist
largely to serve skiers in the winter. Within easy driving distance
there are also several excellent gourmet restaurants. A favourite
stop, especially in the winter, is the Vieux Mazot, close to Les
Brasses. |